I've long had a certain affinity towards Proenza Schouler. There is something about the way in which they deconstruct the classic silhouettes we have long abide by and modified them to cater to the modern, ever daring and savvy consumer and fashion aficionado. So it's no surprise that their latest showing in New York is most definitely my cup of tea.
There is something different with this collection compared to previous seasons. Whereas the PS boys often played it safe with neutral colour palettes and long, lean silhouettes, their latest showing seemed somewhat impulsive. Gone is the element of complacency. Still, there are many undeniable trademarks PS have become renowned for. Block colours, the occasional oversized piece and of course, a little grandiose detail. I think one of the things I can appreciate most from this collection is the continuation of trends. It may not be an intentional direction, but this continuation is far more accommodating to your everyday fashion enthusiast such as myself. Rather than a case of throwing pieces straight into the bin once the season has passed, collections such as this one emphasise retaining certain items and championing them into the new season. Okay, so maybe this isn't a practical approach for every fashion eccentric (I too have been one of those types that refuses to wear the same outfit twice), but it is encouraging to see the shift in runway trends and an endorsement in buying pieces with a longevity mindset.
With PS, we are seeing AW16 trends such as knitwear and stripes being revamped for the upcoming season. Swapping rusty oranges and rich rouge shades for bold primary colours reminiscent of a Joan Miro painting and adding a little flair in the form of ostrich feathers. It isn't all unfamiliar though. There is also a maintained appreciation for traditional pieces through double breasted blazers (let's be honest, you can never have enough) paired with playful asymmetrical hemlines just to remind us if we had forgotten, PS can do streetwise femininity too.
Maybe the intense colours paired with less constructed, more clingy pieces aren't for everyone but you have to admire that in a Fashion Week that champions preppy, quintessentially American styles, Proenza Schouler aren't afraid to do something rather gutsy in New York.